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Post by tvnacman on Feb 15, 2014 20:57:51 GMT -5
Glen depending where in the country you are creates different needs . Some areas extra lights and like you say music , phone chargers . Others areas stock lights and use the extra power for heated grips , gloves , pants , jackets and shoe inserts .
I wish I could ride now , but with all the snow we got . There is plenty around people throw it in the street , its not worth taking a chance .
John
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Post by dakotafig on Feb 16, 2014 0:56:18 GMT -5
Well, the scoot lives again, sort of....... I got everything back together and it started right up, and I would even swear to it that it started up easier and seemed to run a bit smoother. I'm sure if there is a higher voltage to the primary on the coil then it could have a better spark.....
Ok, well the issue is now it is not shutting off when I turn the key off. I can still kill it with the red kill slider switch, but it isn't shutting off with the key switch. The black/white stripe wire comes out of the key switch and turns into a grey/white stripe wire after the connector. At the cdi the kill wire is indeed black/white stripe. I verified there is no voltage on the black wire when the ignition is shut off. So, how exactly does the kill wire function?
On a side note, I'm am absolutely astounded the headlights and all the rest of the lights for that matter were ran with basically an 18 gauge feed wire. One 55 watt headlight is 4.6 amps at 12 volts! I'm sure the rest of the bulbs are not insignificant on top of that either. I'm actually very happy with my headlights (I've read a lot of them come with some 35 watt version and is the reason for the HID upgrade), so I decided I'm going to put a high beam and low beam relay up front and let them run the headlights. That will eliminate that load from the 18 gauge wiring circuit. I have the white wire running a relay that comes on when the engine is running. I will run a separate power through that that goes to two more relays. I am going to use the high and low beam wire to run the coil of the second two relays. So, it will take a total of three relays but I will feel a lot better about feeding the light bulbs independent of the small yellow wires.
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Post by tvnacman on Feb 16, 2014 10:30:40 GMT -5
I'm unsure the relays your using , why not use a multi contact relay . One coil to switch 3 circuits .
As for your kill circuit when you turn of the ignition switch you break/open the red red to black and make the green to black/white (some how the black/white wire needs ground on the cdi to shut down the ignition ).
What is your charging voltage at idle and what is it at 4500rpm after 30 to 60 seconds ?
As far as better spark goes , I have not been able to read the discharge from the cdi to the primary of the coil , or the output voltage from the coils secondary . I do plan to make more effort when the weather breaks here . I will pull out my old TV tools (high voltage probe) and try the hold function in the primary . I have my replacement phone so my primary number is good again .
John
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Post by dakotafig on Feb 16, 2014 10:42:45 GMT -5
Ok, I have verified when the ignition switched is turned off the voltage is turned off on the black wire. I will check the grounding and see what I have going on there, I just didn't know exactly how the kill was activated on the CDI.
I didn't have my dmm in the shop last night so I will check that out this afternoon.
As for the headlight relay you are right, I can use a single pole double throw relay. Low beam power can go through the NC contact and the high beam power can go through the NO contact. Then the original high beam power can run the coil of that relay. I would have probably figured that out, it was just to late last night for me be thinking straight.
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Post by tvnacman on Feb 16, 2014 10:57:06 GMT -5
once your mind starts to focus on this more creative ideas will come to mind .
the switching action by an energized relay coil should not be connected to the coil circuit . I would feed the common terminal of the relay from the battery with a fuse .
When I got in yesterday I forgot about the pulse coil wire from the stator do you still need that ?
John
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Post by dakotafig on Feb 16, 2014 11:41:02 GMT -5
Pictures tend to tell a lot more than trying to explain it. So here is a quick sketch of how I am wiring the headlights and stator power.  |
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Post by dakotafig on Feb 16, 2014 17:00:11 GMT -5
Quick update on the not shutting off thing, completely unrelated to the stator upgrade. I would ground out the wire and it shut off. Next step was checking connections ect. Well, I found that if I wiggled the wires going into the back of the switch it would trigger the kill wire. So, I guess I'll be opening that up to see what is going on in there.
Also, I checked the voltage at the battery, 14.3 volts at any speed. Awesome......
I have lots of pictures of the fuse block and wiring I did and I will be posting those later.
Thanks for everyone's help!
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Post by tvnacman on Feb 16, 2014 18:55:51 GMT -5
don't be shy!!!!!
I'm interested in your pictures of what you did . I would like to see the relays you used too .
John
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Post by dakotafig on Feb 16, 2014 21:50:17 GMT -5
What is the max wattage output of the 7 wire rectifier? Or max current output?
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Post by tvnacman on Feb 17, 2014 7:17:37 GMT -5
My testing was based on the 11pole stator . The output of the 11pole I found to be positive charging st 125 to 135w . The regulator I eill have to say unknow at this time .
John
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Post by tvnacman on Feb 17, 2014 7:17:47 GMT -5
My testing was based on the 11pole stator . The output of the 11pole I found to be positive charging st 125 to 135w . The regulator I eill have to say unknow at this time .
John
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Post by tvnacman on Feb 17, 2014 7:22:59 GMT -5
My testing was based on the 11pole stator . The output of the 11pole I found to be positive charging st 125 to 135w . The regulator I eill have to say unknow at this time .
John
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Post by tvnacman on Feb 17, 2014 7:23:09 GMT -5
My testing was based on the 11pole stator . The output of the 11pole I found to be positive charging st 125 to 135w . The regulator I eill have to say unknow at this time .
John
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Post by tvnacman on Feb 17, 2014 7:23:41 GMT -5
My testing was based on the 11pole stator . The output of the 11pole I found to be positive charging st 125 to 135w . The regulator I eill have to say unknow at this time .
John
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Post by tvnacman on Feb 17, 2014 7:24:17 GMT -5
My testing was based on the 11pole stator . The output of the 11pole I found to be positive charging st 125 to 135w . The regulator I eill have to say unknow at this time .
John
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